Re: What causes cheeses made from the same kind of milk taste different?

Though as you recognized, cheeses made from different milks will have 
different tastes, the variations in cheeses made from the same milk 
source is amazing.

Whatever kind of cheese you are making, the basic process is very similar 
but there are variables that you can introduce along the way.  These 
variables will result in different flavours and textures of cheeses.

Working just with cow's milk your first decision is whether to use raw, 
pasteurized, whole or low-fat milk.  Raw milk will rely on its indigenous 
bacteria and their enyzmes, with their unique flavor contribution, to start 
the curdling.  In pasteurized milk, the natural bacterial population and 
enzymes have been destroyed by heat, so other bacteria must be reintroduced 
to the milk.  The mix of bacteria used will impact on the flavor; today, 
supply companies offer "standardized" starter cultures of bacteria (usually 
freeze-dried for stability)for use by cheese-makers.  Thus each time you 
buy your favorite brand of cheddar or mozzarella cheese, it will have a 
flavor and texture very similar to previous purchases.  Milk with higher 
fat content results in cheese with more/richer flavor.  Cheese made from 
skimmed milk is harder with less flavor. 

Once the milk has separated into curds (solid) and whey (liquid), the 
ripening process then plays a significant role in determining the cheese's 
flavor and texture.  The bacteria are still at work and the enzymes start 
to break down the main components in the curd.  The fat, sugars and 
proteins are broken down to varying degrees depending on time and 
temperature.  The ratios of these degradation products to the still-intact 
proteins and fats contribute to what makes each cheese type unique.  The 
timing of the addition of salt which controls acid production by the 
bacteria, is also critical to flavor and texture. Some varieties of cheese 
are noted for the addition of molds which develop flavors via the same 
chemical/enzymatic process that bacteria do. 

Cheese can also be enriched by cream and have other flavor ingredients 
added to make the specific end product.


Carol Crouse
Food Technologist
The Food Chain Ltd.